Made in Russia
Many participants in the BRICS+ Fashion Summit note the importance of professional contacts among fashion industry representatives. The Parking Gallery, an art space in Zaryadye Park, will host a B2B showroom during the Summit. It will be a venue for networking and presenting fashion collections. Brands may use this space to negotiate with buyers and sign delivery contracts.
The showroom will display over 100 Russian and 20 foreign brands. We would like to introduce you to several of the Russian participants.
1377
This brand comes from the city of Volgograd. It was founded by designer Alexandra Zhurina, who feels strongly that everybody has the right to wear any clothing that is free from imposed standards and stereotypes. She experiments with different shapes, colours and fabrics, always looking for ways to create a striking image. At the same time, the brand is conscious of its accountability for there being too much clothes on our planet. 1377’s tag line is “Minimum for maximum”, which means that a minimum of clothes should satisfy maximum needs.
ANAMORPHOSES Collection
The designers intentionally deformed their clothing pieces by revisiting standard designs and giving them a “distorting mirror” effect. This collection is a pure imprint of present-day emotions reflecting the imperfections of the world’s people.
Abzaeva
This brand revolves around local identity. Its philosophy is rooted in the concept of preserving the cultural code of the Buryat Republic. Each of the brand’s collections paraphrases the past, the traditions and forms of nomad culture, and their migration into the realm of today’s fast-paced world.
Six Worlds by Nadezhda Abzaeva
“In my new collection, I continue to unravel the idea of coexistence between different worlds: people, nature and spirits. There are six worlds in Buddhism, each inhabited by different entities (gods, demigods, humans, spirits, animals and demons). The showroom at the Summit venue displays various clothes made from natural fabrics, including jackets, waistcoats, skirts and trousers from dense cotton with a hand-made texture. The collection also features the brand’s basic products: longsleeves, bodysuits and dresses made of printed knitwear. This print was designed by a neural network based on the sound of the wind on Olkhon Island.”
Nadezhda Abzaeva, Founder of the Abzaeva brand
BLCV
The brand’s name is made up of the consonants in the last name of its founder and designer Ilya Bulychev. Proportions, cut architecture, volumes, conditioning and length are fused to create jeans that look perfect. Focusing on patterns only comparable to the standards of custom tailored products of the past, BLCV gives its finished garments the quality of made-to-measure items.
The 2000s Time Collection
BLCV’s new collection follows the targeted path on its journey through fashion eras. After the spring/summer season inspired by the 1980s and 1990s, it is now time for the 2000s. The art of custom and DIY glorified by the lead singers of the 2000s rock bands plays a key role in the collection. These trends are responsible for the holes and scrub marks on the denim. Denim shirts, down jackets, denim bombers and checkered flannel shirts contribute to recreating the spirit of the times. The collection’s leading motif is the remastered BLCV logo designed to resemble the iconic AC/DC emblem.
CHAPURIN
Chapurin Fashion House is a pioneer on the Russian fashion market. The brand was established by designer Igor Chapurin in 1998. Initially producing haute couture, the brand soon expanded into seasonal prêt-à-porter, capsule collections and accessories. Today, Chapurin collaborates with leading, design-focused Russian and international firms to include industrial design, creates uniforms, and performs interior design.
Road Movie Collection
The deep symbolism behind the concept of the “road” and its interpretation in cinema inspired Igor Chapurin to create a prêt-à-porter collection. The designer explores the influence of context on his characters and uses clothes to show their transformation throughout the “journey”, from the start to the end of the show. The collection traditionally employs natural materials, including wool, cotton and silk, manufactured to order for the brand by textile mills in Como Province, Italy. Yet, Road Movie also features recycled materials, mostly cotton and eco-leather.
Dear Passenger N.
A true St. Petersburg brand of premium women’s clothing founded by designer Ekaterina Kibovskaya. Dear Passenger N. means tailor-quality, natural Italian fabrics, and the spirit of historical traditions from a modern perspective. The brand reinvents the form and content of a historical costume, creating a style of aristocratic and intelligent self-expression for a unique woman of our era.
First women in rock Collection
A novel interpretation of rock style in Dear Passenger N.’s signature pattern characterized by intelligence, splendour and femininity. In creating this collection, the designers used corduroy, tweed, cotton, wool and transparent stretch mesh fabric.
GAPANOVICH
The brand’s philosophy is based on a rethink of local cultural codes, interpretation of traditional costumes and exploitation of the concept of memory – both familial and cultural. Alexandra Gapanovich, the brand’s designer, draws inspiration from the Russian Far North, blending local imagery with the patterns of global conceptual deluxe. The brand’s signature elements are ruches, hand knitteds, work with shapes and volumes, multi-layered compositions and delicate handwork.
Little Secrets Collection
Little Secrets is a famous Soviet era children’s game. Showing small precious items hidden in the ground under a piece of glass to one’s closest friends was an early childhood experience of building an inner circle, and breaking them was felt as an attack on privacy.
This childhood game of “little secrets” inspired the brand’s new collection, where the secrets are represented by clothing models “concealed” in the northern lands of the Kola Peninsula, decorated with flowers and herbs that grow in the Far North in different seasons, from spring and summer to late autumn.
The conflation of nature and our experiences, dreams, and memories transforms into magical “little secrets” dissolved in time and space.
Julia Dalakian
This brand is already 34 years old. It has displayed its collections at world fashion weeks in Moscow, Milan, Cape Town, Beijing, Tashkent and other cities. Julia Dalakian Fashion House has two clothing lines: Julia Dalakian Couture and #15 JULIDA prêt-à-porter.
Cruise 2024 Collection
The collection features all the Julia Dalakian style key trends that have become the hallmark of Julia Dalakian Fashion House. What distinguishes Cruise 2024 from other collections is its new blends of fabrics, colours and textures.
This season’s character is a creative person who can use every possible means of self-expression. The collection theme is rendered through simple and complex details that add to the character’s modern proactive attitude.
The key element of Julia Dalakian’s style is a focus on preserving and constantly improving the traditions of haute couture. The designer achieves this by using unique conditioning techniques and sophisticated sculptural cuts. At the same time, although the images are packed with elaborate and impeccable details, the brand’s clothes are affordable, light and elegant.
MaisonESVE
The brand produces premium catwalk collections and has all its clothing items made in Moscow. Its portfolio has both elegant, mostly loosely fitting clothes, cozy knitwear and slip dresses with a comfy cut. The brand also produces accessories, such as clutch bags, chokers, bracelets, belts and brooches.
Forte collection
The collection’s theme is the cyclical pattern of fashion. The designers drew inspiration from the items, objects, images and film scenes that caused a stir in the 20th and early 21st century, leaving a lasting subliminal mark in our minds, even though we might seem to have forgotten them. This creates a vibe of déjà vu or memories of the present. Moreover, the collection revamps the brand’s hits, now made from new materials.
SHIN
One of the brand’s mainstays is fusion hanbok, a traditional Korean costume. A redesigned version of the hanbok could become perfect daytime wear. Designers at SHIN know for sure that the fusion hanbok style will make you stand out in a crowd and show your inner creative powers through the costume..
Joseon Collection
“We looked for inspiration to Joseon, Korea’s last royal dynasty, the most glamorous time for Korean traditional costume. The collection emphasizes the collars of that era, specifically focusing on the royal scarlet colour.
We did not seek to reproduce historical elements precisely. Instead, we tried to translate the historical style into the language of contemporary daywear.
Since SHIN is going global and expanding its sales geography, we thought that creating a collection of clothing for all occasions would be in our strategic interests. Basic clothing pieces can be paired with ceremonial attire for special occasions and complemented with the haute couture items we offer every season.”
Antonio Shin, Designer and Founder of SHIN
SL1P
This is an experimental knitwear brand. The brand’s name looks like the word “slip”, which means throwing a stitch from one knitting needle to another. SL1P preserves and develops knitting traditions, while also adding modern design and innovative elements.
#FW 2023 collection
This is an ode to a strong modern woman. Her strength lies in not fearing to be just who she is: romantic or fiery, weak or capable of overturning the world, sexual or, on the contrary, modest. To be tactile is part of experience of the senses. The collection answers her with high quality knitwear with an ideal structure that is perfect to the touch thanks to an innovative modern yarn.
VICTORIA ANDREYANOVA
Victoria Andreyanova Fashion House was established in 1992 as a design bureau for creating small exclusive collections for boutiques and private customers. The most important thing in work and life for the brand’s designer Victoria Andreyanova is living naturally, in harmony with the surrounding world. This also applies to the clothes labelled with her name. They are distinguished by top-quality fabrics, laconic architectural cut and attention to hidden details.
Turtles Collection
The Turtle jacket got its name from its distinctive oval shape. The “spirit animal” of Victoria Andreyanova Fashion House changes its “shell” from season to season: the materials used in the designer’s collections alternate between tapestries made by an old Russian factory, Scottish tweed and French taffeta. The Turtle loves to travel. “My dream is for every customer to have their own favourite turtle jacket, like a statement piece. Plain fabric focuses on a stiff profile, whereas tapestry makes the same piece look different, softer and more ironic,” says Victoria Andreyanova.
Yana Besfamilnaya
The philosophy of this brand established by designer Yana Besfamilnaya is rooted in the concepts of transformation and ironic sexuality. When a girl cannot pick which jacket to wear, she puts together halves of two different ones. When things get out of hand, she gets rid of a strap on the bodice of a T-shirt, or a trouser leg on a pair of convertible jeans. Each collection from Yana Besfamilnaya always tells a new story about transformation of the character and her wardrobe, where clothes change shape, fit and even purpose.
BOSSIHA Collection
This collection is a remote employee’s manifesto. It features the brand’s iconic garter pieces and brand-new ideas: cropped shirts with removable ties, and sweatshirts studded with pins allowing you to change the garment’s length and volume.
ZASPORT
This sports and casual attire brand is the official outfitter of the Russian Olympic team. Its target audience includes energetic and classy people. They are all about a healthy lifestyle and clothes in their world must meet certain requirements: comfort, quality and design that follows or even sets current fashion trends. “The winning style in each of us” is the philosophy of the ZASPORT brand.
ZASPORT CLUB collection
“The brand took on board all the season’s key trends: minimalist design, comfort and utility, a blend of styles, and vibrant colours – green, yellow, navy blue, azure, red, magenta, as well as the universal grey, black and white.”
Анастасия Задорина, основатель бренда ZASPORT
Olovo
The brand’s name (‘olovo’ in Russian means tin) is an allusion to the tin soldier, the favourite toy of Soviet boys, which has come to symbolize a happy childhood. Olovo’s visual concept is based on the style of 20th-century uniforms. Inspired by their beauty and comfort, the brand’s designers give the uniforms a modern look with novel materials and techniques. This is how Olovo transforms Soviet soldiers and sailors’ shirts and padded jackets into perfect and stylish urban apparel.
Heritage AW23 collection
Inspired by Guy Ritchie’s RocknRolla film, the Olovo team brought together Vadim Dymov, Yuri Semin, Evgeny Aldonin and other friends of the brand in their winter lookbook. They all tried on the role of black marketeers – the first Soviet entrepreneurs and millionaires.